05 May 2008
Five members of the New Zealand Contingent currently serving with the Multinational Force and Observers (MFO) in the Sinai were selected to form the Catafalque Guard for the ANZAC services at Gallipoli: - one Air Force (FLTLT Mike Cunningham), one Navy (ASTD Ryan Wiltshire) and three Army (CPL Shannon Winikerei, LCPL Ivan Spackman, and PTE Byron Blaine).
We had arrived in the Sinai in October 2007, so we welcomed the opportunity to visit Gallipoli and participate in the ANZAC Day ceremonies – and to be able to get away from the Desert for a bit.
We flew out of Cairo on 20 April on the 2 hour 15 minute flight to Istanbul. We were met at the airport by the Contingent Commander, LCDR Simon Rookes. Fortunately he had arranged bus transport from the airport to our hotel, which eventually saw us arriving at around 0600 and straight into breakfast. The hotel was pretty much full of Australians because of the number of Gallipoli tours congregating in Istanbul. We couldn’t check-in until 1400 so had a chance to walk around our area of Istanbul. It was great seeing shops and cafes again, especially without the added hassle of exceptionally keen Egyptian salesmen!
By the time we did check-in most of us had managed a couple of hours sleep, a wander round the shops, and had bumped into some of the eight New Zealand Army Band members, who were also part of our contingent. However it wasn’t until the evening, while having dinner at a local pub that the whole contingent was introduced to each other.
The next day started with a five hour bus ride to Gallipoli. Veterans Affairs, as the lead government agency, had hired two smaller buses rather than one big one, which worked out really well. We drove straight to ANZAC Cove and were immediately struck by the sheer scale of the landscape, which left us all amazed at the effort required to climb the large hills, without being under the duress of an opposed landing.
ANZAC Cove was well into preparations for the 25th, large seating stands had been erected, along with a couple of stages and large fenced-off grass areas to the immediate front. We had a walk around the ceremony area and familiarised ourselves with the memorial site. The ANZAC Cove Dawn Service was to be a combined affair with the Australian Federation Guard (AFG), using their SLR’s and performing their drill movements. We had yet to meet the AFG but an evening function had been planned by the Embassies that would enable us all to get together. Gallipoli is on a Peninsula a half hour ferry ride across from the city of Cannakkale. It was here that we were to base ourselves, with both us and the Australian Contingent staying in the same hotel.
Two formal practices had been arranged for the afternoon of the 22nd, one at ANZAC Cove and the next at the NZ memorial at Chunuk Bair. The ANZAC Cove practice was really driven by the AFG. Australia was the lead nation so we spent the majority of our time learning how to do parades the AFG way. It was more difficult for the Catafalque Guard members (ASTD Wiltshire, LCPL Spackman and PTE Blaine) because they were required to pick up the SLR drill and the altered AFG drill movements. All went well though, with our Guard members mucking in well with the Australian members.
Our practice at the Chunuk Bair site was to be our only chance for a site practice for the week. Chunuk Bair also houses a very large memorial to Attaturk, the founder of modern Turkey, so it is well used for Turkish ceremonies. It also happens that the 23rd is Children’s Day in Turkey and Chunuk Bair is invaded by thousands of school children, which prohibited us getting anywhere near the site. It was a relief to go through our own guard practice after the ANZAC Cove practice. We were much more comfortable with our own Styers and more “traditional” drill movements. It did not take us long to co-ordinate our drill and run through two full rehearsals with Judy Bailey as the master of ceremonies.
Over the 23rd and 24th we managed one more practice with the AFG, but more importantly were able to get time to walk around some of the memorial sites. It is especially sobering to realise the age of some of the soldiers, the youngest being only 14.
The walk certainly focussed us on the significance of ANZAC Day and the importance of the upcoming services.
We drove over to set up for the Dawn Service at 1700 on the 24th, and by then, ANZAC Cove was full. We managed to park our buses, which was also to be our beds for the night and then took a stroll around ANZAC Cove. The place was starting to cool down, before the expected cold night, however people were still streaming in. The event co-ordinators were amazed at the numbers and the buzz around the place – it was almost as if ANZAC Day at Gallipoli had become a pilgrimage for many. With an expected crowd of 10000, it certainly heightened the nerves a bit!
None of us really slept much that night, we all woke to watch CPL Winikerei pull the flag to half-mast at 0300, plus it was cold. People sleeping on the ground at ANZAC Cove must have been feeling it! To keep the crowd entertained during the night, organisers had documentaries and remembrance programs playing on the two big screens, plus stalls were set up that sold hot food, blankets and souvenirs. The Dawn Service begins at 0530, with Judy Bailey also master of ceremonies for this service.
The service ran for about 40 minutes and along with the 10000-strong crowd a large number of VIP’s from many different nations attended. From our perspective the service ran smoothly, our three guard members performed very well, at least the equal of their more practiced AFG colleagues.
Once the service had finished we needed to get back to the buses and work our way through the crowd to get to the Chunuk Bair site, around a 45 minute walk, but with 10000 people dispersing the drivers did not know how long it would take to travel by bus. The Australian service at Lone Pine began at 1030 but because of the problems of movement, we were told to miss this ceremony and go straight to the 1230 Chunuk Bair ceremony.
The NZ Service followed a similar format to the Dawn Service, however, more focussed on New Zealand’s contribution. The fact it is a New Zealand event made it more meaningful and emotional to all who attended; certainly to us members of the guard. Despite the wind and the earlier cold our ceremony went very well, it left us all with a sense of pride and awe at the commitment of the Gallipoli soldiers. Even at the completion of the formal service many numbers of people stayed around to look over the site, to soak in the atmosphere of the place and the special significance it holds to New Zealanders.
We left Gallipoli around 1500 to get back to the hotel, where we could celebrate with our contingent in a less formal area. The next day the contingent all travelled back to Istanbul before catching different flights to different destinations. It had been a memorable trip; certainly one many of us will never forget and will remember with pride.
Ends